One family, four hundred trees and a harvest that still moves entirely by hand.

The Vale orchard sits at the bottom of a sheltered valley, on a slope that faces south and catches the afternoon sun. It is not large. There are four hundred trees across a little over three hectares, most of them apples, with two long rows of pears along the lower hedge. The same family has worked it for three generations, and for the past twelve years every apple and pear they pick by hand has come to our shelves. This is the story of how a small orchard has stayed small on purpose, and why its harvest still happens one piece of fruit at a time.
Ruth Vale planted the first rows in the 1970s, on land that had been grazing pasture. Her son Tom took over in the nineties and replaced the tall old standard trees with smaller trees on dwarfing rootstocks, which bear fruit sooner and can be picked from the ground or a short ladder. Today Tom and his daughter Hannah run the orchard between them, with Ruth still walking the rows most mornings and offering opinions on the pruning.
When our buyers first met them, the Vales were selling most of their crop to a wholesaler who blended it with fruit from dozens of other farms. The fruit was good. It simply disappeared into a bigger pile. The arrangement we agreed that first autumn was simple: we would take a fixed share of the harvest at a price agreed before picking began, and the Vale name would stay on the crate. Twelve seasons later, that is still the deal.

At this size, Hannah knows the orchard tree by tree. She keeps a notebook for each row with notes on blossom, fruit set, disease and yield. The trees are numbered, and the older ones have names.
That attention shows up in the fruit. A small orchard can thin by hand in early summer, removing some of the young fruit so that the rest grows larger and sweeter. It can prune each tree to let light into its centre, where colour and sugar develop. And it can walk every row after a storm to check for damage, which on a large estate would take days.
Pollination is shared work. A beekeeper from the next village keeps a dozen hives along the top hedge each spring, and the bees work the blossom for the few weeks it is open. The Vales count on them for a good fruit set, and the beekeeper counts on the orchard for a light, floral spring honey. It is the kind of arrangement that only works when both sides plan to be there next year.
The Vales grow several apple varieties, picked over a long season, and two varieties of pear. Our shelves carry Pink Lady apples and Conference pears from their best rows in a good year, alongside fruit from other trusted growers when the Vale crop runs out.
Apples bruise easily, and a bruise that is invisible on picking day turns brown a week later. So nothing at Vale is shaken from a tree or gathered from the ground for sale. Every fruit is picked by hand.
The pickers wear a canvas bag across the chest with an opening at the bottom. Each apple is lifted and turned upward so the stalk comes away cleanly, then placed, not dropped, into the bag. When the bag is full, its bottom opens into a wooden bin, and the fruit rolls gently out. A good picker can fill a bin in a morning.
Not every apple on a tree ripens on the same day. The fruit on the sunny, outside branches is ready first. So each row is picked two or three times, a week or so apart, taking only the fruit that is ready. Pink Lady is one of the last apples of the season to ripen, and its picking often runs well into late autumn.
"You can't hurry an apple. You just go back and ask it again next week." — Tom Vale
Pears are handled differently. Conference pears are picked while still firm and green, when they lift easily from the branch. They ripen off the tree, in cool storage and then in your fruit bowl. A pear left to soften on the branch tends to turn grainy at the core.
The trees have changed. When we started, about a third of the orchard was old trees that cropped every other year. Tom has replanted in stages, a row or two each winter, so the orchard never loses its whole crop to replanting at once.
The way the fruit is stored has changed, too. With help from a long-term buying agreement, the Vales invested in a small cold store, which keeps apples at a steady low temperature after picking. That slows their ripening, so fruit picked in October can still be crisp weeks later. It also means the fruit leaves the farm in better condition, which is one of the reasons it arrives on our shelves tasting the way it does. There is more on this in the cold chain, explained in plain language.
What has not changed is the scale. The Vales have been offered more land more than once. They have said no each time. Four hundred trees is what one family can know properly, and they would rather know every tree than grow twice as many.

Fruit picked this carefully deserves careful keeping at home:
When Vale fruit is in season, it is marked with the orchard's name in the orchard fruit aisle. Buy a few apples and a couple of pears, keep them the way the Vales would, then eat one side by side with an apple from somewhere else and see whether you notice the difference.
